Jay Rayner is leaving The Observer after 25 years as its restaurant critic, to join the Financial Times – which means that for many readers his weekly reviews will disappear behind a paywall. Marina O’Loughlin, formerly of the Sunday Times and before that The Guardian, has also joined the FT and will write a monthly column […]
Our round-up of what the nation’s restaurant critics were writing about in the week up to 9th June 2024 Evening Standard The Counter, Soho David Ellis expected great things from the second helping of Kemal Demirasal’s upscale Turkish cooking following his success of the first Counter in Notting Hill last year – “God it was […]
Our round-up of what the nation’s restaurant critics were writing about in the week up to 17th March 2024 The Evening Standard Morchella, Exmouth Market Jimi Famurewa dined at this new spot from the team behind NewingtonGreen’s Perilla on just its second evening, and found “not so much a restaurant quickly finding its feet as […]
Our round-up of what the nation’s restaurant critics were writing about in the week to 10th March 2024 Evening Standard Singapulah, Chinatown Jimi Famurewa was frustrated by Ellen Chew’s new venture, where an “otherwise perfectly serviceable opening” was marred by a sense of “not quite delivering on its advertised promise” to showcase the best of […]
Our round-up of what the nation’s restaurant critics were writing about in the week to 3 March 2024 Evening Standard Camille, Borough Market Jimi Famurewa kicked off the Gallic theme that dominates the week’s reviews with his visit to “a supremely creative and confident new-wave bistro” from the team behind Soho’s Ducksoup, where he found an […]
Our weekly round-up of what the nation’s restaurant critics were writing about up to 25 February 2024 ***** The Evening Standard Tashas, Battersea Jimi Famurewa confessed that it took a trip to Sydney in January to convince him of the attractions of the Antipodean brunch. “And now I have fallen pretty hard for Tashas — […]
Here’s our weekly round-up of what the nation’s restaurant critics were writing about in the week up to 4th February 2024 ***** The Evening Standard “A scrappy, DIY sunburst of a space.” Jimi Famurewa reviewed Paradise Cove in Wandsworth, the latest in a string of restaurant that Tarell ‘Chef Tee’ Mcintosh has opened and lost, […]
Here’s our weekly round-up of what the nation’s restaurant critics were writing about in the week up to 28th January 2024 * The Evening Standard “Measured hits of palate-jolting unexpectedness.” Jimi Famurewa reviewed Sune, an antidote to the “wine-led sharing-plates restaurant” formula and “chef-led pretentiousness” usually seen in Hackney. (It’s pronounced “sooner” and comes from […]
Here’s our weekly round-up of what the nation’s restaurant critics were writing about in the week up to 21 January 2024 ***** The Evening Standard Jimi Famurewa reviewed Kebhouze, the new Oxford Street kebab joint from Italian businessman and “internet personality” Gianluca Vacchi which claims to be the UK’s biggest “despite the fact 220-cover Green […]
Here’s our weekly round-up of what the nation’s restaurant critics were writing about up to 14th January 2024. ***** The Evening Standard David Ellis grumbled about the travel time to the new permanent Clapton location of chef Abby Lee’s Mambow, but even with a “bad beginning” (“queuing has not been planned for” and there was […]
