ROTR was on holiday last week – here’s a two-week summary of what the nation’s restaurant critics were writing about up to 6 August 2023. ***** The Evening Standard On 26 July, Jimi Famurewa reviewed Gengelly’s at The Earl of Derby of Telegraph Hill, a “handsomely restored Victorian drinking hole on a south-east London backstreet […]
Here’s our weekly round-up of what the nation’s restaurant critics were writing about in the week up to 23 July 2023. ***** The Evening Standard “This Balearic beauty is a grill on fire.” Jimi Famurewa is the first of our regular critics to review Mountain, “Tomos Parry’s spanking new, instantly thronged successor to the Michelin-starred […]
Here’s our weekly round-up of what the nation’s restaurant critics were writing about in the week up to 16 July 2023. ***** The Observer “Ambitious, clever, relaxed, and hugely enjoyable.” Jay Rayner was in Bury St Edmunds in the heart of Suffolk, enjoying the fruits of labour of two ex-Pea Porridge chefs and their catering […]
Here’s our weekly round-up of what the nation’s restaurant critics were writing about in the week up to 9 July 2023. ***** The Guardian “I shall never tire of seeing the power of a good restaurant bringing joy to its community.” Grace Dent was in the delightfully named Slaggyford, Northumberland at The Kirkstyle Inn where […]
Here’s our weekly round-up of what the nation’s restaurant critics were writing about in the week up to 3 July 2023. ****** The Evening Standard Jimi Famurewa was in Notting Hill to review Empire Empire, the new Indian restaurant from Gunpowder founder Harneet Baweja, and found several “nettlesome issues”, not least the “small, awkwardly configured […]
Here’s our weekly round-up of what the nation’s restaurant critics were writing about in the week up to 26 June 2023. ***** The Evening Standard “A few doors down from the East End’s beigel shops and Bangla curry houses — we have an all-new, affordable institution, built upon principles of soulfulness, succour and the timeless […]
Here’s our weekly round-up of what the nation’s restaurant critics were writing about in the week up to 18 June 2023. ***** The Guardian Grace Dent reviewed Lilienblum, the “most recent opening” from Israeli chef Eyal Shani that had Jimi Famurewa at The Evening Standard impressed but perplexed last week; did Grace feel the same? […]
Here’s our weekly round-up of what the nation’s restaurant critics were writing about in the week up to 11 June 2023. ***** The Guardian “Food doesn’t get much more personal than this.” Grace Dent was in Caversham, enjoying “thoughtfully made and determinedly different” authentic Hyderbadi food at the “second incarnation” of Clay’s Kitchen, now in […]
Here’s our weekly round-up of what the nation’s restaurant critics were writing about in the week up to 4 June 2023. ***** The Evening Standard “A brutally brilliant destination in its own right.” Jimi Famurewa visited the new National Theatre restaurant, Lasdun, and wondered what he’d done wrong when every other customer left at exactly […]
Happy Bank Holiday Monday! Here’s our regular round-up of what the nation’s restaurant critics were writing about in the week up to 28 May 2023. ***** The Observer “In an area not renowned for its ambitious restaurant choices, this is one which deserves to thrive.” Jay Rayner was in Northern Ireland, struck lyrical by the […]
