Our mission is remarkably simple. To tell it how it is!
This week sees three near-identical reviews of Brat from Tom Parker Bowles, Keith Miller and Fay Maschler (despite Fay saying last week she’d wait until a restaurant settled in to visit!), not including Grace Dent, who appeared to go with TPB… Jay Rayner in The Observer apologises in advance for loving The Dining Room at Beaverbrook […]
Jay Rayner in The Observer reviewed Farm Girl Cafe, the third branch is now open in Chelsea for dinner [and it’s safe to say he DID NOT like it…] “The menu at the Farm Girl Café features lots of initials. There’s V for Vegan, GF for Gluten Free, DF for Dairy Free…. There should be TF for Taste […]
Jay Rayner in The Observer is rather far afield this week as he reviews Zuni Cafe, San Francisco… The Zuni roast chicken is certainly a thing… featured on myriad lists of greatest restaurant dishes Is it… Sensational? Not quite, but it is very, very good. …faux peasant, faux rustic fantasy. Zuni has long been regarded as a […]
This week we bring you the chance to compare and contrast two different restaurants as the Observer’s Jay Rayner and Tim Hayward in the FT both review Nuala, while Kathryn Flett’s Telegraph article and the Evening Standard’s Nicky Haslam deliver their opinions on the revival of Roganic… Jay Rayner in The Observer, likens restaurant reviewing […]
Jay Rayner in The Observer reviewed Manchester’s German-themed restaurant Albert’s Schloss where the “waiters aren’t wearing lederhosen and slapping each other’s thighs manfully, but they might as well be”… “If you didn’t pay proper attention, you might dismiss Albert’s Schloss as Dante’s third circle of hell, only with less glamour. The music is so loud it could dislodge a […]
Jay Rayner in The Observer wants to love the newly refurbished Simpsons in the Strand, but the booze prices (“a maniacal laugh in the face of sanity”), “calamitous” Beef Wellington, and lack their infamous breakfast rather spoils his fun… “I want to love Simpson’s in the Strand. I want to adore it, in the way I once […]
Jay Rayner in The Observer reviews The Kitchen, Inverness (after a bad meal at Boath House, Nairn)… BOATH HOUSE: “I’ve had more fun at the chiropodist, getting my corns removed. I left the Boath House with my will sapped. It is a brilliant opportunity wasted. “A narrow, gummy strip of treacle-cured salmon arrives, with cubes of bitter, […]
When Grace Dent reviewed The Langham’s new ‘pub’ The Wigmore, she decided she never, ever wanted to go there again. We would hazard a guess that The Guardian’s Marina O’Loughlin would be quite happy to go back any time…“Silly? A bit. Delicious? Oh yes.” “Creative cocktails in their own weeny tankards… pies and roasts and toasties… reimagined […]
This week the Observer’s Jay Rayner waxes lyrical about The Garden Museum’s new Garden Cafe in Lambeth, a lovely new space with food to match thanks to the quality in the kitchen. Harry Kaufman and George Ryle have an impressive list of credits between them, including St Johns Bread & Wine, Padella and Primeur… “The Garden Café occupies a sparkling new […]
Jay Rayner in The Observer finds the cooking at Roth Bar & Grill, Bruton – housed within the Hauser & Wirth gallery – more than a match for the art. “The whole proposition is so damn civilised that the quality of the cooking is an extra. The site, part of a working farm, is a pastoral […]
