Our mission is remarkably simple. To tell it how it is!
Jay Rayner in The Observer enjoys a knowing attempt to bring the street inside at Borough Market’s El Pastór (from Barrafina founders, the Hart bros)… It’s “a fun space of bare brick and shiny metal and colourful murals; a knowing attempt to bring the street inside”, with “tequilas in worryingly large servings” and “pork shoulder, marinated and […]
When our reporters praise Bray’s Hind’s Head it is because the picturesque pub is “thankfully not over-Hestoned” but The Sunday Times’s Lisa Markwell has the opposite problem – she can’t find any evidence of Blumenthal’s pseudo-scientific cooking at all, nor the influence of his trusty lieutenant Ashley Palmer-Watts – and it leaves her disappointed… “I […]
This week saw a double helping of reviews for Richard Caring’s latest Mayfair venture, the lavishly appointed and ludicrously (yet somehow brilliantly) named Sexy Fish. Both the Evening Standard’s Grace Dent and the Telegraph’s Joseph Connolly paid the Berkeley Square newcomer a visit, and opinion was very much divided. Grace, being the meeja dahling that […]
Rapper-turned-chef Rabah Ourrad’s food at Wormwood gives pause to The Observer’s critic-in-chief Jay Rayner His one caveat? “Some will find the Wormwood experience profoundly irritating. There is a breathiness to the service, an intensity in the way ingredients are pointed out before you’re allowed to eat them, which can be wearisome. And costs mount.” Zoe […]
The Editors’ review of Penkul & Banks This relaunch on the site of Beard to Tail (RIP) looks set to become a handy all-day destination. Ms Maschler’s five star review for new Barrafina The Standard’s critic is one of the first through the doors of the Covent Garden outpost, finding ‘vivacious, ambrosial’ food. […]
With the Scottish independence referendum imminent, who knows what the future may hold? Perhaps the next time we travel to visit our northern neighbours we will need to go armed with passports? Edinburgh is a particular highlight for those who love eating out, being the best-provided dining conurbation outside the Smoke. So just in case […]
The Editors’ review of Strand Dining Rooms It’s a handy enough place for breakfast or tea and coffee but we’re not sure it persuades as a lunch/dinner destination. Ms Maschler enjoys ‘ethereal’ and ‘extraordinary’ food at Wormwood The Evening Standard critic is back from her hiatus and thrilled to discover a new Notting Hill […]
The Editors’ review of Lyle’s A light and bright operation in the School of St John. At last, Quaglino’s to get a refurb D&D London will close the site July-October for a (much-needed) major renovation. Grace Dents finds the food at Ham Yard lacking “But the courtyard is pleasant to get drunk in, […]
The Editors’ review of Ham Yard The food is the usual Firmdale Hotel formula, but the setting is really something special. Beast has Grace Dent roaring and raving “Look away now if London decadence leaves you boggle-eyed”, warns ES’s critic. Get a free glass of bubbly at the new Hawksmoor The Knightsbridge outpost […]
Recent news that 64 Degrees, Brighton, has plans to bring its particular brand of ‘social dining’ to the capital got us thinking more generally about what’s happening in London-on-Sea. So, this week, we shine a spotlight on Brighton…… NEWS 64 Degrees Possibly the most exciting restaurant ever to hit Brighton, according to Marina O’Laughlin, 64 Degrees […]
