Our round-up of what the nation’s restaurant critics were writing about in the week up to the 2nd March 2025 London Standard Paradise, Soho David Ellis went to a six-year-old Sri Lankan whose owner, Dom Fernandes, has “tarted-up” the interior and replaced the original menu with six-course tasting options (carnivore, pescatarian or vegetarian) at £65 […]

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Our weekly roundup of what the nation’s restaurant critics were writing about in the week up to 16th February 2025 London Standard Bar Valette, Hoxton David Ellis was underwhelmed by the new venture from Isaac McHale of nearby heavyweight The Clove Club, this one a self-styled “European restaurant” with mostly Spanish and some French dishes […]

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Our weekly roundup of what the nation’s restaurant critics were writing about in the week up to 9th February 2025 London Standard The French House, Soho Theming his review around Valentine’s Day, David Ellis declared his passion for a restaurant he loves – upstairs at a veteran Soho watering-hole, where Scottish chef Neil Borthwick (“primary influences Michel Bras and […]

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Our weekly roundup of what the nation’s restaurant critics were writing about in the week up to 26th January 2025 London Standard Fantômas, Chelsea David Ellis welcomed the return of Chris Denney, formerly of Notting Hill’s 108 Garage – “a chef of endless imagination, uncommon talent and an explorative, expert palette”. Typical of his new menu […]

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Our round-up of what the nation’s restaurant critics were writing about in the week up to 12th January 2025 London Standard Nipotina, Mayfair David Ellis found a lot to like about the latest opening from Mayfair powerhouse Samyukta Nair – an all-day Italian that “exists to assuage stresses that exist only outside its door”. What he meant […]

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Our round-up of what the nation’s restaurant reviewers were writing about in the week up to 5th January 2025 The Guardian Juliet, Stroud Grace Dent gave a big thumbs-up to this modern European bistro from sculptor Daniel Chadwick, owner of the Woolpack in nearby Slad and her “favourite type of hospitality character… vision-led, distinctly non-corporate and […]

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Our round-up of what the nation’s restaurant reviewers were writing about in the week up to 22nd December 2024 London Standard Wiltons, St James’s David Ellis might be the only person ever to have paid his bill with a Tesco credit card at this bastion of moneyed Englishness (est. 1742) – but he was a sucker […]

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Our round-up of what the nation’s restaurant reviewers were writing about in the week up to 15th December 2024 London Standard Chinese Gourmet, Canary Wharf David Ellis overcame his aversion to the Isle of Dogs to visit this unheralded Chinese spot that had been recommended by a reliable friend. The venue was very basic – “the […]

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Our round-up of what the nation’s restaurant critics were writing about in the week up to 8th December 2024 London Standard Mondo Sando, Camberwell David Ellis trekked to an “incandescently brilliant” new sandwich shop from Jack Macrae and Viggo Blegvad, who were already “cultishly famous in South London” for their pub residencies in Camberwell and […]

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