Harden’s regular round-up of the restaurant critics’ musings, from the week ending 20 October 2019. Pilgrim, Liverpool For Grace Dent of The Guardian, “2019 has been a year of loitering confusedly in food halls, gob ajar, trying to decipher where one eats, sits, orders and pays”. Her latest (but less confused) visit was to Duke […]
Harden’s weekly update of where the critics are eating, recommending and avoiding, for the week ending 13 October 2019. Sons + Daughters, London N1 “Sometimes, a truly great, home-made sandwich can be quite a profound thing.” Jimi Famurewa for The Evening Standard isn’t always most thrilled by the “enlivening excursions to hypey food courts, dazzling […]
Harden’s weekly update of where the critics are eating, recommending and avoiding, for the week ending 6 October 2019. Mao Chow, London E8 Jimi Famurewa from The Evening Standard sometimes feel like “a well-meaning wrecking ball” (“the walking scourge of overrun kitchens and treasured local secrets”) when he reviews small restaurants. “Can that already-mobbed neighbourhood […]
Harden’s regular round-up of the restaurant critics’ meals, from the week ending 29 September 2019. Forza Wine, London SE15 Jimi Famurewa for The Evening Standard encourages readers to ignore any “sniffiness” they might feel about Forza Wine, on the fifth floor of “a shiny new multi-level co-working complex that looms above Rye Lane”; yes, it […]
Harden’s (slightly delayed) weekly update of where the critics are eating, recommending and avoiding, for the week ending 22 September 2019. Lagom at Hackney Church Brew Co, London E8 Searching for “good food, fairly priced” instead of the “false promise” of restaurants where the main courses start at £25, Jay Rayner for The Observer headed […]
Harden’s weekly update of where the critics are eating, recommending or avoiding, for the week ending 15 September 2019. It’s slightly shorter than usual this week – we’re busy finalising Harden’s London Restaurants 2020 and sending it off to the printer; available soon in all good bookshops! OKN1, London N1 40 Hoxton Street might not […]
Harden’s regular round-up of the restaurant critics’ meals, from the week ending 8 September 2019. Wun’s, London W1 For this week’s review, Jay Rayner for The Observer was tempted “to shove just five words at you and leave it at that: sugar skin Iberico char siu”. “The expansion of the Chinese food experience in the […]
Harden’s weekly update of where the critics are eating, recommending and avoiding, for the week ending 1 September 2019. Kala, Manchester Jay Rayner for The Observer headed to Manchester to try out the latest jewel in Gary Usher’s crown. He wasn’t welcome, of course – when Usher opened his very first restaurant, Sticky Walnut in […]
Harden’s weekly update of where the critics are eating, recommending and avoiding, for the week ending 25 August 2019. The Yan, Lake District Grace Dent for The Guardian loves the Lake District, and visits a lot, but is constantly “in search of a big, reasonably priced and, above all, welcoming place to take normal folk” […]
Harden’s regular round-up of the restaurant critics’ meals, from the week ending 18 August 2019. Flor, London SE1 Jimi Famurewa for The Evening Standard found Southwark newcomer Flor to be “lightly challenging” and “utterly astonishing”, with food that “hits a sweet spot between the unexpected and the familiar… between thoughtful, modern refinement and messy, chin-dripping joy”. […]
