LONDON Nautilus NW6 £41 “The matzo meal batter is so light and the fish always so über fresh” that it’s inevitably a delight to visit this “truly excellent” – if “basic and functional” – West Hampstead chippy. Golden Hind W1 £26 “A joy for lovers of fish ’n’ chips” – this “very basic” Marylebone institution’s […]

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French haute cuisine, the wellspring from which culinary magic seems to flow across the world, has been sidelined of late in favour of rusticity, simplicity and (let’s face it) dirty great burgers. But can the classics ever truly go out of style? Surely we all just need a gentle reminder of France’s culinary prowess? Well, […]

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