The Evening Standard’s Grace Dent seeks out Shoreditch’s latest smokehouse venture, Rök, concerned that it may be a another tedious, cavernous, edgy-by-numbers barbecue joint, which – she says – it absolutely is not. “Rök is small — 40 seats — and elegantly formed, dispatching gorgeous, highly devourable sharing plates of exquisite British produce with a Nordic […]
The Indy’s Tracey Mcleod heads to Marlow to review Tom Kerridge’s new venture, Coach It doesn’t take bookings and “like the new-look Tom Kerridge himself, is much smaller than you’re expecting” but the food doesn’t disappoint and would be worth waiting for. Telegraph critic Zoe Williams says Great Portland Street’s Portland is ‘a breath of […]
Rapper-turned-chef Rabah Ourrad’s food at Wormwood gives pause to The Observer’s critic-in-chief Jay Rayner His one caveat? “Some will find the Wormwood experience profoundly irritating. There is a breathiness to the service, an intensity in the way ingredients are pointed out before you’re allowed to eat them, which can be wearisome. And costs mount.” Zoe […]
Grace Dent eats humble pie – and burgers – at Bobo Social The Evening Standard reviewer is forced to admit she judged this posh burger concept by its cover. Pop-ups in very poor taste? From death row dinners to human burgers, east London pop-ups become more outré. Oh dear, Marylebone’s Opso has a bad […]
The Editors’ review of La Tagliata We find a very modern Tuscan villa with a competently realised menu. Zoe Williams – the loan dissenting voice on The Palomar Only two stars in the Telegraph? Has the Israeli restaurant gone so badly downhill since our visit just two months ago? Read our review. Brasserie […]
The Editors’ review of L’Anima Café Some of the food is of very high quality but there’s scope for greater consistency here. Opso? More like Oops Fay Maschler doesn’t enjoy her trip to Marylebone’s new Greek restaurant. Canvas to take over Le Cercle Restaurant ups sticks from Marylebone to Sloane Square. Kurobuta […]
The Editors’ review of Penkul & Banks This relaunch on the site of Beard to Tail (RIP) looks set to become a handy all-day destination. Ms Maschler’s five star review for new Barrafina The Standard’s critic is one of the first through the doors of the Covent Garden outpost, finding ‘vivacious, ambrosial’ food. […]
The Editors’ review of Strand Dining Rooms It’s a handy enough place for breakfast or tea and coffee but we’re not sure it persuades as a lunch/dinner destination. Ms Maschler enjoys ‘ethereal’ and ‘extraordinary’ food at Wormwood The Evening Standard critic is back from her hiatus and thrilled to discover a new Notting Hill […]
The Editors’ review of Lyle’s A light and bright operation in the School of St John. At last, Quaglino’s to get a refurb D&D London will close the site July-October for a (much-needed) major renovation. Grace Dents finds the food at Ham Yard lacking “But the courtyard is pleasant to get drunk in, […]
The Editors’ review of Ham Yard The food is the usual Firmdale Hotel formula, but the setting is really something special. Beast has Grace Dent roaring and raving “Look away now if London decadence leaves you boggle-eyed”, warns ES’s critic. Get a free glass of bubbly at the new Hawksmoor The Knightsbridge outpost […]
