Fitzrovia, British, Modern Restaurant Guide

“An exceptional meal all round, with fantastic, seasonal cuisine” is how all the numerous reports we receive describe James Knappett & Sandia Chang’s 18-seat chef’s table experience in Fitzrovia, which has one of the best reputations amongst the capital’s most renowned tasting experiences. Even so, its “eye-watering prices” are of concern to both fans and foes alike. A rare critic says that “everything about the place misses the mark for me, apart from the food. I am in a minority, but just not a fan”. More representative is the following enthusiasm: “somehow I have managed to justify to myself spending this much on a meal four times now. That’s how good I think it is!”

Under the ownership of film director Guy Ritchie (pals David and Cruz Beckham have been spotted here), this “first-class” pre-Victorian Fitzrovia boozer is thriving. Everything is “done well”: and at heart, the food is “simple, and well-sourced” (although this description possibly under-sells a menu featuring such dishes as Wiltshire Venison Tartare with Togarashi Mayonnaise and South Coast Brown Crab Risotto with Coriander and Cherry Harissa dressing).

More than the sum of its parts, Will Lander & Daniel Morgenthau’s highly regarded Fitzrovia corner-site looks uneventful but achieves a “convivial and relaxed atmosphere” (“similar in feel to a neighbourhood restaurant in New England”) thanks to its “charming” staff. On the menu – “extremely well-constructed, flavoursome and unfussy food” from a “changing menu” matched by an “accessible wine list” (“very good by the glass”); and all at a “fair price”.

“Lovely combinations of flavours are expertly executed” at Jun Tanaka’s inviting and “buzzy” Fitzrovia restaurant, where his cuisine is consistently praised by a big fan club as “really fresh and seasonal, and very satisfying”. And, especially given the high quality, a visit “doesn’t break the bank” either. Top Tip – “the incredible value set lunch is a joy for a Michelin star restaurant – please go!”

A particularly solid choice for brunch – this “buzzy” Kiwi-run chain (with seven branches) fits the bill well, with “interesting small plates” of pan-global fusion food and an emphasis on notably good coffee (which they roast in-house). On the downside, the food is often “passable and no more” and their “lively” interiors (Granary Square in particular) can become “hopelessly crowded”, giving rise to incidents of “slapdash service”. Still, they’re “fun” and “reasonably priced”. (See also Vardo).

The “outstanding quality and consistency” of Will Lander and Daniel Morgenthau’s Fitzrovia fixture, has helped it celebrate its 10th anniversary this year and for such a central venue, it’s unusual in feeling “genuinely local in its approach and feel”. The sophisticated cuisine is “expertly prepared and carefully judged” and manages to be “complex without being overthought”. “Friendly, knowledgeable and professional service” is a key strength and “helps to jolly a slightly dull space”.

2021 Review: A “superb and quirky afternoon tea” is to be had in the atrium of this boutique hotel north of Oxford Street, with is themed around Alice in Wonderland’s Mad Hatter (the ‘drink me’ potion here, is an invitation to indulge in Champagne!): “good value for a huge amount of attention to detail – love it!”

“Really nice, and often outstanding dishes” are acclaimed by most reports on this former greasy spoon in Bloomsbury from ex-Rochelle Canteen chef Anna Tobias and the 40 Maltby Street team: and they say the simple, modern bistro dishes are backed up by a “very fair wine list” with a “good selection of natural wines”. (A more sceptical, minority view is that “although the place hits the nerve of the Zeitgeist – with food suggesting honesty and simplicity, complete with an air of sophistication – its success is a pricey London phenomenon possibly explained by the decline in home cooking”).

“For first timers, the room [a converted banking hall] remains one of – if not the most – dramatic dining room in London and possibly the UK” at this Ian Shrager-designed hotel north of Oxford Street. Jason Atherton’s smart brasserie cuisine more than holds its own nowadays, too, and it‘s a hit with expense-accounters as well as those on a big night out: “come for the business meeting, stay for the mac ’n’ cheese and wine list – always a treat!”.

2022 Review: ‘Exciting concept changes’ are promised at this elegant Roux-branded dining room, within the luxurious five-star opposite Broadcasting House. Democratised in style in 2018, then closed for much of the pandemic and beyond, the presumption is that it will take another move to a less formal (perhaps brasserie?) style when it reopens in 2022. Just the other side of the wall is The Wigmore – a pub created from spare space at the hotel and launched with its own entrance and Roux input in 2017. A hint at what’s to come?

Wanting to eat in the wee hours? This stalwart chain has fed tolerable diner food 24/7 (VQ = Vingt Quatre, geddit?) to the denizens of the Fulham Road for as long as anyone can remember (before 1995 it was called ‘Up all Night’); and has a more recent outlet (unusually, licensed till 4am, though you must be eating) that’s more convenient if you are clubbing in the West End on the ground floor of a Bloomsbury hotel.

2023 Review: The “beautiful terrace” with its “attentive staff” at this very central hotel makes for an oasis of calm close to busy Oxford Street. Named in reference to Virginia Woolf, the queen bee of the Bloomsbury set, it has a “fun atmosphere”, and the heating and retractable roof make it ideal for afternoon tea throughout the year.

This “beautifully turned out” 18th-century tavern aims “at the upper end for pub food” (although the cooking “never strays into fussy fine-dining fare”). But while it mostly receives a good rep in reports – and its location near Oxford Circus makes it “handy when carpet shopping at John Lewis becomes all too much” – its performance is very modest for somewhere backed by the mighty JKS Restaurants and with a menu designed by chef James Knappett of Kitchen Table fame.

This wine bar/restaurant group has a steady fanbase on the strength of its vinous offerings, although its “bistro fare” is perhaps not much better than “acceptable”. The best of its four venues is probably the “cosy” Marylebone flagship with live jazz and late opening at ’28-50 By Night’, and there’s a “very convenient” branch a minute’s walk from Oxford Circus.