Fitzrovia, French Restaurant Guide

“Brilliantly-executed-but-unfussy food paired with exceptional-and-well-priced wines” is winning ever-higher acclaim for master-sommelier Mathieu Germond’s low-key Fitzrovian… and people already thought it was pretty cracking to start off with. Founded in 2017 after Mathieu quit Pied a Terre, it’s named for the village in the Loire Valley where his grandparents ran a farm and “for the true Francophile, it’s a real find”. “Mathieu is the don when it comes to affordable vintages: he will often recommend a cheaper bottle than a ‘known’ producer: the mark of a great somm’”; and service generally is exceptional: “delightful, knowledgeable and gracious”, which contributes to the “delightfully buzzy” atmosphere. Chef George Farrugia (installed in 2021) is “cooking up a storm” at present, and numerous dishes are enthusiastically mentioned in reports: “the ‘Sole Fritter’ snack is probably the finest two-bite snack ever”; “the duck meatball starter which sounds a bit ordinary, is unbelievable”; “the Muscat broth will almost have you licking the bowl”. “Ask Mathiew to choose a glass to go with your choices: you’ll appreciate the incredible knowledge as you get a description of each one with terroir, flavours and why it matches your food. You learn so much… and get fabulous glasses of wine!”

“Lovely combinations of flavours are expertly executed” at Jun Tanaka’s inviting and “buzzy” Fitzrovia restaurant, where his cuisine is consistently praised by a big fan club as “really fresh and seasonal, and very satisfying”. And, especially given the high quality, a visit “doesn’t break the bank” either. Top Tip – “the incredible value set lunch is a joy for a Michelin star restaurant – please go!”

“Really nice, and often outstanding dishes” are acclaimed by most reports on this former greasy spoon in Bloomsbury from ex-Rochelle Canteen chef Anna Tobias and the 40 Maltby Street team: and they say the simple, modern bistro dishes are backed up by a “very fair wine list” with a “good selection of natural wines”. (A more sceptical, minority view is that “although the place hits the nerve of the Zeitgeist – with food suggesting honesty and simplicity, complete with an air of sophistication – its success is a pricey London phenomenon possibly explained by the decline in home cooking”).

“Another delicately balanced triumph from the clever people who bought you Clipstone, the Quality Chop House and Portland” – William Lander & Daniel Morgenthau’s “great addition to the London restaurant scene” in Fitzrovia has instantly become one of the Top-50 most commented-on restaurants in our annual diners’ poll; and is also one of the best. As with its siblings, the whole approach is all quite “restrained” and “grown-up”.“Simply pitch-perfect seasonal French food” from chef Stuart Andrew (“akin to a slightly lighter version of traditional Lyon dishes, beautifully executed for the London/international clientele who might find the original a bit heavy going”) is offered alongside a “strong wine list”, with “enough variety and novelty to keep everyone interested”. “All this is overlaid with superb staff who are casual but on-point, with the cheerful enthusiasm of happy, knowledgeable people serving happy, knowledgeable customers”. There’s the odd query as to whether the room is a little too crowded, but most diners feel it’s a “very classy and clubby space that’s excellent for a romantic dinner, a business meeting, or a night out with friends”. Top Menu Tip – “the snail bon bons are a superb pre-starter – they melt in the mouth”; “excellent duck – perfectly pink and very tender”.