Islington, French Restaurant Guide

This “well-established and reliable French bistro” with a “faux-rural dining room” in Islington is “good value, friendly and welcoming”, while the “simple and traditional cooking packs plenty of flavour in quite generous servings”. Top Tip – “go for the set lunch” (three courses for under £20).

“I used to be a regular, now I’m so sad”. The June 2023 reformatting of this “very handsome-looking” Wolseley Group outpost on Islington Green (which had closed in 2019 and then reopened in 2020 after failing to sell the site) is not going well. It’s a large site, evoking a fin-de-siecle Parisian haunt with a “newish design that’s pleasant enough” and a fairly traditional, French brasserie-style menu. For too many, though, “since reopening after a further refresh results are dire”. One reporter neatly summarises the mood: “This is written with huge sadness, as it was my favourite place for nearly any occasion in the Corbin & King days. Now it feels like a Café Rouge, with a cynical and over-priced menu and average service (I really feel for the staff, a lot of whom were there in the good old days). What a waste, and what a loss for Upper Street: it was such a godsend to have a grown-up restaurant in the area when it first opened, and then reopened”.

“I simply don’t grasp how they keep their prices so low!” – this “insanely cheap bistro” has provided “decent” Gallic fare in a prime Islington location opposite the Almeida Theatre for 40 years. It hardly matters that the cooking is “pretty run-of-the-mill”, “but you can’t argue with the highly quaffable French plonk, amiable staff, and dishes that are very pleasant”.

This “friendly French bistro on Islington’s busiest street has all the predictable Gallic offerings – onion soup, escargots, crepes – and a decent wine list”. It inspires few criticisms and is “pleasant enough” to be a useful address “well-placed for the Almeida theatre”.

For a “romantic” evening, fans tip this permanently moored barge on the Regent’s Canal about 15 minutes walk north of Old Street tube. It’s consistently well-rated all round, including its modern bistro cuisine.