Mayfair, British, Modern Restaurant Guide

“Fantastic looking, cleaned up and with an amazing ceiling by the late Phyllida Barlow” (who completed the work shortly before she died in March 2023) – ArtFarm’s newly relaunched “posh boozer” in Mayfair has five storeys (with the Mount Street Restaurant on the first – see also – and with the upper floors dedicated to art events supporting Hauser & Wirth’s roster of artists). Aside from “loads of interesting art and a good backstory”, the traditional British grub (pint of prawns, oysters, shepherd’s pie, fish finger sarnie, Chelsea bun…) is pricey but “decent”.

2021 Review: Approaching its 300th birthday, this Mayfair pub is more stylish than most in the West End, partly due to its history of celebrity ownership (it was part of Madonna and Guy Ritchie’s divorce settlement, with Ritchie getting The Queen of Pop’s share when they split). Foodwise, it’s also been a decent bet in recent times (although it did receive one ‘off’ report from a former fan this year).

That there’s too few reports in our annual diners’ poll for a rating on this Mayfair chamber is remarkable given the lofty heritage of its famous name (for many decades applied to the room that’s nowadays Hélène Darroze, upstairs). After a hiatus of many years, this new space opened in 2020 and has never inspired much press reviewer attention – perhaps due to its ‘citizens of nowhere’ contemporary styling and modern JG Vongerichten-curated menu. Still, such feedback as we do receive on results from the luxurious rotisserie and wood-burning grill is all good.

2023 Review: “A great change to the ghastly chains” – Victoria & Grace Sheppard’s elegant, “friendly” café is tipped for its “terrific coffee”, as well as a quiet bite or their ‘bottomless brunch’.

Were it not still considered “outrageously expensive” in over 40% of reports, it might be easier to recommend this “well-located”, old-faithful brasserie (est. 1976). When it was relaunched under new ownership in late 2021, it was widely derided for its poor standards. But even though its cooking is still too often dismissed as “standard fodder”, overall feedback on its food improved this year, with fans praising its “menu to suit all tastes, including many traditional and down-to-earth dishes”. And anyway, cost-be-damned, it’s “still the haunt of the business lunch crowd” thanks to its “long-established, buzzy ambience” and handy location near The Ritz.

“The great Jesus Adorno and his team (aided by his no. 2 Paul Stabbins) have brought the charm and atmosphere of the hugely missed Le Caprice” to this “very smooth operation” within Rocco Forte’s London flagship hotel, which fans say is “the new classiest place in town” (Adorno joined in 2021). It occupies a fine, panelled dining room that for traditionalists is “one of the loveliest in the capital”, complete with “marvellous spacious tables”. Since 2019, Adam Byatt (of Trinity, see also) has overseen the kitchen, which gives a modern spin to the preparation of top British ingredients: “wonderful” if not especially foodie. BREAKING NEWS: in early September 2023, it was announced that Jesus would be leaving Charlie’s to re-join Jeremy King in founding a new restaurant back on the site of Le Caprice (but under a different name). These will be big shoes to fill here…

2021 Review: “Outstanding cooking, with first-class service” consistently hits the bullseye at this relatively unsung venue, tucked away at the back of a luxury Mayfair hotel. There’s a “thoughtful” approach to the meal, with “chefs coming out to tell you about dishes” – while some diners are “invited into the kitchen to meet Alyn”. It’s a “very comfortable” set-up and “the space between tables is incredible by modern restaurant standards, which creates the intimacy that a romantic meal requires”. And, especially at lunch, the elegant room’s lack of windows and natural light adds to the cocooning nature of the experience.

“Consistent, tasty, dependable” food at a “price-point that’s pretty competitive given its Mayfair location” is the deal at this Shepherd Market outfit named after an 18th-century courtesan. At almost 10 years old, the excitement it generated at launch has diminished, although fans reckon it “continues to excel” as both “a business destination with character” and “a romantic and atmospheric” spot.

2022 Review: When it opened in April 2019, this heart-of-Mayfair restaurant aimed for a blend of British Modern cuisine with accents of West Africa, but nowadays a more confident Pan-African narrative is dominant, both in the styling and cooking. No survey reports as yet; online feedback has its ups and downs, but – for anyone interested in African cuisine – this is London’s most poshly located destination.

2023 Review: Fans say it’s “nicer eating on the ground floor than being restricted to the much more expensive tasting menu upstairs” at this glossy landmark, opposite Green Park. Open from early morning, it’s “an unusual but sophisticated haunt for breakfast in the heart of Mayfair”. And, as with upstairs, “the availability of Hedonism Wines via a tablet, means the wine list has more toys than Hamleys!”

This illustrious chamber was closed during our annual diners’ poll, awaiting a May 2023 relaunch under the brand of talented whippersnapper, Tom Booton (who has only just hit 30). It is the first time the grill has had a chef’s name over the door in its 92-year history, and heralds a major change of gear for the space – no longer is it to be a hallowed foodie temple, but now more of a luxe brasserie with ‘Tom’s cheeky personality shining through’ (at least that’s what the press release says). In comes breakfast for the first time (with truffled egg and soldiers and omelette Arnold Benedict); Sunday lunch; a chef’s counter; sharing dishes; and a general culinary ‘tie loosening’ moment with ‘twists on British classics’. As part of this cuddlier style we are also promised ‘playlists hand selected by Tom’; and ‘playful cocktails and artisan English beer’.

2021 Review: In the bowels of the RA, this subterranean venue (with bar, garden and dining room) is praised by fans for providing “reliable food in a civilised space”. Typically for Peyton & Byrne though, it doesn’t impress everyone, with the odd report of some “terrible” dishes.

“Reports of the death of The Wolseley are greatly exaggerated”. After a well-publicised boardroom battle in 2022 ousted its original co-founders, even though its long-term fans are “annoyed at the ousting of Christopher Corbin & Jeremy King”, there is “no evidence on the floor of any impact”: “it’s as good as it ever was (and just as full!”). This Continental-style Grand Café, near The Ritz (originally built as a car showroom, for which it is named) is celebrating its 20th year, and remains a hub of metropolitan living. The “impressive” and “always bustling” space is “one of the best dining rooms in London” and “if you want to wow a client or a foreigner, then bring them here”: it remains London’s No. 1 for business entertaining in our annual diners’ poll. Its “great menu of classics” is executed to a “solid and reliable” if “lacklustre” standard, but you “go for the overall package and peerless people watching, not the food”. The exception is “the most civilised breakfast anywhere on the planet” which is also our diners’ poll’s No. 1 choice in this category. The “varied menu, with something – and more – for everyone”, helps “elevate the occasion to a special level”; and it is also “a power scene” amongst business-types. Top Tip – afternoon tea is also “always impressive with its elegance and high standards”.

“A complete circus!” – Richard Caring jovially sticks two fingers up to good taste at his willfully opulent and theatrical riff on Mayfair-meets-Roman-orgy, where staff are clad in togas, and winged statues and nymphs flying around in the ceiling murals look down on you as you eat. Compared to the “OTT” riot of the decor, it’s easy to overlook the luxurious menu, which is Italian- and Greek-accented, with a bit of caviar thrown in for good measure. There’s the odd report of “appalling service” (“trying to hurry us to meet their deadline”) or dishes that misfire badly, but savage put-downs are absent from reports; even while acknowledging that it is “crazily expensive” and “full of selfie takers” (obvs!).

Misha Zelman’s (Goodman, Burger & Lobster) Creative Restaurant Group (Endo at the Rotunda; Humo; Sumu) opened this luxurious May 2023 newcomer on a Mayfair site that’s never been previously used as a restaurant. Online articles around its launch have recycled the PR claims to ‘English Manor House’ styling – but the reality seems to be nothing like a creaky old country home, other than in the names of rooms like ‘pantry’ and the addition of lots of posh finishes. Executive chef Ben Orpwood sources ingredients at the height of their short seasons to emphasise the cuisine’s local British focus. No survey feedback or significant press reviews as yet.

Plus ça change! After 20 years of mucking about with megastar chefs, like Gordon Ramsay, Simon Rogan and Daniel Humm – this landmark Mayfair hotel’s glorious Art Deco dining room is finally going back to sailing under its ‘own brand’ flag: returning to an updated version of the format it abandoned two decades ago. Coalin Finn is to be at the stoves, and the food will be a bit fancier than when the space was something of an undiscovered traditional gem. Few five stars in the late ’90s were serving barbequed radish skewers braised in homemade teriyaki, laced with horseradish; but grilled native lobster with crushed Jersey royals and sauce Américaine… that sounds more like it.

“What a fabulous new bar and restaurant where Boudin Blanc (RIP) was” – this latest, April 2023 member of the well-known, wine-led group has been instantly hailed as a “wonderful addition” to picturesque Shepherd Market. “Thoroughly grown-up in style, it feels a bit more professional and slick than the lovely Holborn original”. In particular, the superior bistro cooking is “more interesting than in WC1”: “no culinary fireworks or cheffy tricks” but “worth it even for non-wine drinkers” and “reasonably priced considering the neighbourhood”. As you might hope, there’s an “exceptional” list of vintages “across a wide range of price points” with “random treasures at reasonable prices”, delivered by “charming and engaged staff” who “can actually have a conversation about a given bottle”. “Can’t recommend it more highly!”